June 25, 2014
We visit a run-down country restaurant called El Tajo near Yotala on Sunday. We sit overlooking a dried-up stream on stools that are nothing more than tree trunks by a wooden table under a peppertree, eating fish cooked over firewood in the corner of the yard. We order fresh milk and the owner/hostess takes four glasses, goes to one of the three big black cows tied by ropes to a fence, makes her get up, and squeezes in enough to fill each one; for my second drink I order “ambrosia” and an eight-year-old boy puts some “alcohol potable” (Ceibo cocoroco, 192 proof) and some white sugar in a glass and then fills it up from the same cow. Hot, frothy, inimitable, and one of my most unforgettable mixed drink experiences.